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const schemaOrgItemList = { Often, Burke said, a climber's motivation for entering the death zone changes over time. He decided to leave the mountain. The Canadian arm is generally understood to revolve around alpine clubs based in Calgary, Canmore and Vancouver, where serious ice climbers and mountaineers rub shoulders. Typically, climbers attempt to make it to the summit and back to Camp Four in a single day, spending as little time as possible in the death zone. Now, she's facing a brutal ordeal to get back down the mountain. At that altitude, the air has so little oxygen that the body starts to die, minute by minute and cell by cell. According to the AP's Molly Sprayregen , Namche Bazaar even had a North Face store. He was so slow to reach Camp Four, the last stop before the summit, that Smith later said it was clear his partner would be unable to reach the top. This past spring added another chapter to the legacy of shame: a climbing season that saw an unprecedented 500 people reach the peak was marred by news that dozens of climbers had left a young Briton named David Sharp to perish in the so-called Death Zone above 26,000 feet. Ottawa woman conquers Everest | CBC News Loaded. PU: "4ec6cc58-ebe1-3338-ab56-66e0bb175bf8" (b=!0,m=e,setTimeout(function(){y.requireModulesWithModuleBase(a,e,function(){var b=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0);try{h=q.apply(null,b)}catch(e){d(14,a+" -> "+e);return}l.exec([h])})},0)):d(15,a)},getDeps:function(){return!0===b?m:[]},get:function(a){l.add(a)},closeDefine:function(){g=!0;!1===b&&(b=!0,l.exec([void 0]))}}}function K(a){function b(b,e,g){if(0 10s");g()},1E4)});"complete"===document.readyState&&(v(48,"isComplete"),g());"loaded"===document.readyState&&(v(48,"isLoaded"),k());l(document,"DOMContentLoaded",function(){v(48,"DOMContentLoaded");k();l(document.getElementsByTagName("body")[0],"pageshow",function(){v(48,"body pageshow");g()})});l(document,"readystatechange",function(){var a= Traditionally, Western expeditions offer financial assistance to the families of local workers who die on the job. "I'm a pulmonary physician, so I had an instrument with me called an oxygen saturation meter," Crystal said . "The best treatment is to get down," he said. ", At no point does he attempt to feign humility, which is merciful given the self-regard that tints practically every topic he touches. "Sixteen people are crammed tightly together inside with their thighs pressed up against their chests and modestly full day packs balanced on top of their knees.". "I heard him scream my name at top of his lungs," she said. Hawley's response in this account is both intriguing and important, because it contradicts one of the American Alpine Club's key defences - that neither it nor Hawley has passed judgment on the evidence against Smith. /* This was Burke's second attempt to climb Everest. (b=f,c.exec()):d(42)},isRun:function(){return a}}}function h(a,b){function c(a){setTimeout(function(){b(a)},0)}for(var d=[],f=0;fc.length?d(5,a):(c.pop(),b(c.join("/")))}function b(a,b){var c=a.split("/"),n=b.split("/");if(0 "+e[p]);return}}g(k,c)}):d(9,f)},requireModules:g,requireOne:m,define:function(a,b){var c=D();if(!0!==l)null===c?w(49,""):w(49,D().getAttribute("src"));else{if(null!==c&&(c=c.getAttribute("src"),c in e)){e[c].setDefine(a,b);return}c=s.getActialLoading();u(c)?c in e?e[c].setDefine(a,b):d(46,c):q.push({deps:a,define:b})}}}}(),s=null,z=[],I=(new Date).getTime();t(window,"require",r,!1,27);t(window,"define",F,!1,28);t(r,"runnerBox",function(a){function b(a){x in a||(a[x]=m()); Several team members have told Maclean's that Smith revelled in this power. (m=!0,l=a,b()):d(19):d(20)},add:function(a){"function"===typeof a? Since she arrived in Nepal as a young wire service reporter in 1960, she has amassed in her wooden filing cabinets an extensive and unique set of records documenting climbs on the great Himalayan peaks dating back to the Kennedy years: Everest, K2, Amadablam, Pumori and the Annapurnas - a treasure trove the American Alpine Club finally put into a database two years ago so it wouldn't be lost.

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